Reason to Celebrate!

Last Monday we received the call from immigration that we had been waiting for....We were told they might come by to visit to check us out and make sure Moon and I are really married like we and all our documents say. Instead Moon answered a few questions over the phone about finances and was told that she would know the result by Wednesday. Wed. came and went and my anxiety was up and down like the week before the presidential election. Thursday we made a call to the office and we were told that the paperwork had not been received. Friday we visited the office and the tension between Moon and the immigration officer was palpable as he wasn't the most understanding about our anxious eagerness for the result. He said by Tuesday at the latest with a hint of a smile. Monday the phone rang and the visa was approved! Yeah! Big relief and progression into the next chapter of our journey here.

What does it all mean? I was here on a 3 month visa that expired last Thursday. If they had said no I may have had to return to the US to work on a teaching visa. Instead I was approved for a spousal visa which means I am good for at least a year and eligible to work anywhere anytime. Moon had to hold a part time job to make this happen. We found a school that wanted to hire me so they hired Moon to help facilitate things. Not bad... Now we can look at our options. Moon can stop working with no hard feelings if she wants and I will have to get on the official teaching wagon soon. It really means releif. Like Obama's election it will take a little while to sink in and by then I will be more than busy. Strangely, I look forward to being busy and interacting with new folks. It gets kind of isolated at the home.

What about Joon? I realize you certainly hear more about me (since i'm the writer, for better or for worse). Joon is doing awesome. We are home a lot with him so we don't notice the changes as someone who sees him less frequently might but occasionally we are in awe with the changes he has made. He is getting more and more adept at running and is spending more time playing by himself with his puzzles or blocks. His langauge development is amazing. He seems to instantly know the Korean and English word for an object. Sometimes we don't know how but his brain is absorbing it all. For instance I'll say 'let's go' and he says 'ka Ja'. He has gone through a bout of constipation which has not been fun but we finally made it to the local pediatrician for some medication that has helped. He wants to be helpful which is cool to watch. After dinner he will try to close the containers and insist that he put them in to the fridge and close the door. Of course he is getting bigger and more teeth are coming in. He is developing an awesome personality and is not shy about meeting other people. I'll try to post another video soon....

We hope everyone is doing well and preparing for a fun holiday season. Peace

Happy birthday and food...

Hey! Time keeps going by quickly. It is hard to believe we are nearing the end of November. I have a lengthy post below but first I wanted to let everyone know that tomorrow is Moon's Lunar birthday so do wish her a happy b-day! Her mom and I will be cooking seaweed soup and various other dishes in the morning and having a gathering with her brother later in the day. It should be good fun. Question - What is Joon's lunar birthdate? I'll get back to you on that....

With thanksgiving a distant memory over here I thought that it was time to write a blog about the food. I have certainly gone through many phases as my taste buds and body adapt to the new diet and foods I encounter. Some days I find myself only thinking about what I miss from home and other days I feel lucky to have such an awesome selection of Korean food everywhere I turn. Every day brings a new dish that I have never heard of or seen before.

Certainly, local food is a great benefit of island living. Most fruits and vegetables that are local are cheaper than anything from the mainland. There is nothing I like better than buying potatoes covered in black dirt or eggplant and broccoli picked the day before. We have radishes growing in our yard right now and squash seems to grow almost by accident. Huge pumpkins just appear in the yard.

A daily diet consists of either eggs or cornflakes w/raisins(my new comfort food) for breakfast. Lunch is usually leftover soup from dinner and a Korean soup or fish for dinner. I have found bread that looks and tastes like wheat bread but there is no guarantee that it is not just food coloring added to make it look brown. Peanut butter costs a fortune but I have determined that nothing tastes like home like a pb&j. Also there is Classico pasta sauce. I used to compare pasta sauces for sodium content etc.. Now Iam just grateful for the real deal. I am impressed by the availability of olive oil and grapeseed oil. I did not expect to find those in such great quantity. And then there is my junk food fixes. The day I found popcorn kernels imported from indiana was a good day. Choco pies (essentially moon pies) are good for a chocolate craving in a pinch. Better are the chocolate digestive biscuits (a close second for ginger snaps) with milk and the two weirdest new habits are instant coffee and ice cream cones (no breyers here - it really hurts). I have taken up making our yogurt and using the rice cooker to make bread like creations (banana bread round cakes?). I do like to experiment.

One of my favorite food features is how cheap it is to eat out. Tons of restuaraunts full of awesome foods. Take out is my favorite. You can order JJam BBong ot jajamyun and the scooter delivers it to your door in real dishes. When you are done eating you place the dishes outside the door and they come back to pick them up. No tip! Ican't figure out how they make money sometimes.

I think what I miss the most is cheese. It is a bout 6 bucks for a pack of what looks like individually wrapped american slices. I get the impression that all things are available somewhere in Korea but the price is high if you want it. I also miss something as simple and plain as oatmeal. We have been experimenting with different grains to develop a warm morning comfort food. Finally the lack of oven. I miss baking in general. There are some things that I could create or adapt if I only had an oven. It is not a common feature in houses and this house is no exception. I have fou nd all the ingredients to make a loaf but I will have to wait until I meet someone with an oven or make the investment in a bread machine. (maybe when Iam drawing a bona fide paycheck). Moon was surprised to find herself missing some foods that she was not particularly impressed with when she arrived in the US. I suspect I will experience the same phenomenon when I return to the US. I wonder what Joon will like the most. For now he has taken to rice, fish and tofu. Not a bad diet.

Okay, long enough? all these thoughts have been in my head for a while. Good to get them down in writing. We will see how my tastes/cravings evolve.


I am going to post a couple of links of sights that I found interesting. The first is just a local newsletter for expats on the island called

Jeju life

The second site is a blog written by someone with actual writing skills that I found pretty entertaining so check it out. I am linking to a particularly funny writing about the signs that advertise food but definitely go back to the main page. I like his take on things.

World Famous in Korea


Have fun and Party on! Joel, Moon, and Joel

Ch-ch-ch-changes

Flickr is being annoying so I am trying Picasa for the photos. Let me know your thoughts...

Updates....

We bought a car this month. It was a pretty exciting and bureaucratic experience. Lots of paperwork, no surprise there. We found a relatively old and inexpensive car in the paper and immediatley took a look. We liked what we saw stopped by a mechanic (they dod a small check over for free) and made an offer. Not so fast...Issues that arose included needing a permanent visa and the high cost of insurance for ones who had no insurance history in Korea. It took us a weekend and many phonecalls and bargaining to settle on an insurance plan and to make sure all was in order to legally transfer the ownership. A little stressful but not as bad as I imagined. Seems we could have run into bigger roadblocks but between Moons visa and my international driver's license we were able to do the deed.
Now we are official drivers. I no longer have the license plate that lets everyone know that I am a rental (which eases up on the harrassment that taxi drivers give me) and we are finding out about the fun treatment one gets at the full service stations. Usually free tissues and occassionally a free coffee. They really compete for your business. Of course the cost of gas is steep. Its between 70 and 80 bucks a tank for a midsize vehicle so we are strategic about when we drive.

Last week we took a ride out to Moon's grandmothers home and helped the Aunt's pick mandarins. Pretty easy work though the pesticide factor is not much fun. It seems they spray the fruit heavily meaning one has to pick then send them to be wahed before selling. Organic methods have not taken hold yet and I don't know enough about the businenss to understand exactly what they are spraying against. It meant that Joon had to keep his distance while picking.

We also took a hike up Mt. Halla to enjoy the clear fall weather. I say fall weather but only the leaves have changed. It is still quite warm (50-60 at night) and feels more like a seattle spring. I am told the temps will drop soon. Anyway the hike was beautiful. The mountain is the tallest in south korea and offers a variety of views and terrain. It is a national park so it is always crowded. There is no camping allowed up high so all hikes have to be completed in a day. We chose the trail that was shortest and steepest. It did not go all the way to the top but did offer a view of the dramatic side of the peak. In the spring the grassy areas are full of azalea blooms. I look forward to that hike in a few months. Joon was in the backpack which as mentioned is a rare sight so we both got lots of attention on the way up. He had a great time and we enjoyed the clear views all around. I read an article from the NYT written back in the 80's that explains a little about the mountain and the social aspect of hiking in Korea. A little out of date but in some ways still relevant.

social climbing

Okay, enough for now. I am glad the stress of the election is over and things went as well as they did. I now have to find new ways to occupy my time without my obsessive blog reading to fill the days. Joon is growing quickly and figuring out how to run and jump. It is fun to watch. Enjoy the pics and send us updates from the other side of the pacific. Thanks for posting those halloween pictures on facebook for those who posted. Awesome costumes...Party on!

Big Shoes to Fill....

Harvest time and the neighbors

Hey! It has been a while since our last post. Over a month and we are officially settled, sort of... Now that we have the unemployed routine down it is going to change. Moon was just hired by an English institute nearby to start part time work on Wed. This will help to facilitate my spousal visa and once that comes through I will be taking a full time position at the same place. For now we are learning about our neighbors, shopping quite a bit and learning our way around town by car.
We have great neighbors across the street. They welcome Joon whenever he wanders over and offer helpful advice when we are not sure about something. The wife works every day of the month except two at a restaurant and the husband manages the mandarin and we're not sure what else...
Next to our house is a mandarin grove where no one lives. currently it is close to harvest so workers have been arriving and selectively picking the fruit.



Further down is a woodmill. Very noisy on weekdays but bearable. They seem to take rough cut lumber and make one by's for what we don't know. I am optimistic that ither they slow down in winter or on the island their resource is limited. Maybe I am too optimistic.

In the distance We can hear a gaggle(?) of ducks. When we first arrived on the island we were waking up at odd hours due to jet lag. In those early morning hours I could hear the howl of what sounded like a dog team. Once we started driving we learned to follow a sign for a restaurant serving duck that was near our house. This sign helped us to know where and when to turn on the dizzyng roads to get home. Slowly I put 2=2 together and realized that the rural restaurant may specialize in more than duck. Now the howl of the dogs is not so comforting or romantic as it might feel were I in Alaska. Instead there is a twinge of sadness. Oh well...

Moon and I have embarked on several walks in the neoghborhood that go past many mandarin groves. There is a large Buddhist complex down a side road and often we here the bell early and late in the day. Occasionally there is what I imagine to be a call to prayer sounded over a loud speaker but this is rare.

It is fun to learn what is around this area over time and realize that we are not so isolated within this area. Joon really helps in facilitating my getting to know the neighbors. He is bold and uninhibited as he walks up to everyone and offers a smile and now a little bow of the head in greeting.

Okay, I will stop here. Shorter and more frequent posts will hopefully follow! New pictures are up. Mostly of the reception, beach, and neighborhood. Enjoy and party on...

Family Time

Hey! Another busy week on the island. We started on Sunday going snorkeling/spear fishing for a couple of hours with Moon's uncle. Great views underwater and nothing like eating fresh caught octopus. It was a real treat.
Things slowed down on monday as we alternated between motivated to depressed trying to figure out the best plan for a long term visa that allows me to work. Also without a car and a bus that runs every 90 minutes we tend to have a difficult time getting from the house into town. And so we cleaned house reviewed our finances and gathered more info from immigration to put a plan together.
It has been a hotter than usual september and the mosquitoes have been numerous. Poor Joon is the victim of overnght feeding frenzies by one or two mosquitoes who leave red blotches on his face in the morning. At one point we counted 20 bites on his body. I thought Alaska mosquitoes were bad but Irealize that while numerous they are slow and easy to kill. The mosquitoes on the island are fewer but faster and more fierce. I rarely see one until they are already biting into my flesh and then they are gone before I can even think about swatting. (maybe I'm getting slow in my old age...) Moon's mom bought us a net that goes over the bed that Iinitially thought was overkill until Joon woke up the next morning with no new bites. What a relief.
Friday brought a cousins wedding. I thought Chusok was a busy family holiday until I saw the amount of family that arrived for this event. All of Moon's Aunts and Uncles from around Korea flew in for the weekend. Friday started with an eating fest. Essentially a space in a restaurant is left open for about ten hours for family to drop in and eat and visit at any time. Amzing food and a wonderful relaxed atmosphere for me to meet new family members. It ended with people going to an all night Sauna. Unfortunately Joon was overtired so it was home for the three of us.
The next day brought the wedding which was, as expected, a grand affair, followed by another reception. After a chance for Moon's mother brother and myself to unwind and catch up at a local park we rejoined the Aunts for a final meeting at a local singing room where I will let the pictures speak for themselves.
All the photos posted were taken by Moon's brother Sang Ho. Hope all is well with everyone. Party on!

On the big Island

hey! Sorry for the delayed post. It has been a busy couple of weeks since arriving here in Jeju-do. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon and we were picked up by Moon's Aunt, mom and brother. Everyone was excited to see Joon and he was in good form talking and walking around making everyone laugh.
The house is set up nicely. We were without hot water but the temps were so high we didn't mind a cool shower. Eventually a little water heater has been put in as well as the internet so we are able to feel somewhat settled. There are hot peppers and sesame seeds planted in the yard and in the subtropical environment a variety of birds and insects in the warm night. We have beds so no sleeping on the floor but everything else is done at floor level. This has been an adjustment for Joon. The dinner table is low so Joon likes to crawl on top and put his hands in everything on the table. Dropping food means attracting the bugs so we have to be vigilant to keep things clean. He mostly enjoys having the access and keeping us on our toes.
Jeju island is a large volcanic island. Essentially the towns are on the coast and everything is up the hill from there. Our house is about 8 km from the main city of Jeju-shi

View Larger Map
It is about a 25 minute bus ride and a windy, curvy one at that. It is a small house set in between several large mandarin groves. I finally took a run the other day and got a feel for just how many little farms there are in the area. Small one lane roads, rock walls made out of the lava that makes up the terrain and several gullies that drain the water down to the coast during heavy rains or snow melt at the top of the mountain.
Jeju is very different from seoul (fortunately). The towns are all consolidated and it can become rural in a matter of minutes. The cities contain mostly small independently run shops selling local goods when possible. In addition is the market where people sell their clothes, vegetables, meats, and fish. Slowly my system has gone through a kind of withdrawal from the foods I am used to. Good bread is hard to find and wth few ovens around impossible to bake (though I am exploring a rice cooker recipe). Soups and rice are the mainstays so any western food I crave costs a pretty penny (cereal for instance or traditional pasta) It is not so hard now but I am thinking about living without these things for a year at least and it makes me crave them even more.
To get around we take the bus or cabs. The cabs run on natural gas so it is relatively inexpensive to ride one (about 6 bucks into town). We are hoping to own a car but would like to have some income before we shell out the dough. and of course Iwould like a bicycle but given how people drive I am not overly eager to take my chances on the narrow roads. Bus driver's seem to be the worse with their speeding, sudden stopping and crazy passing. While Koreans tend to be very friendly when meeting in person it seems that behind the wheel no one is looking out for the other driver or the pedestrian. It can be a little scary with Joon so I am extra cautious to look both ways before crossing. One has to be a defensive pedestrian I guess.
Okay, hopefully I haven't bored you to tears.
No major adventures just getting settled. As you can see from our pictures we visited the beach a couple of times and it was great to swim in a warm ocean rather than an ice cold river or lake. we hope all is well with everyone. Feel free to send us questions in the comments section or email us if you want to know more. Have fun!

First impressions

I am writing from the island of Jeju, our home for the next year? We are settling in to the house. Moon's mother really had us set up nicely. There is a nice bed, new flooring, and even a guitar in one of the rooms. She really made us feel welcome.

We arrived in Seoul on the evening of the 5th and we were super tired. As we rode the bus into the big city, I turned on some Beta Band and soaked in the new surroundings Of course Seoul is busy and sprawling but it did not seem so overwhelming as it had in the past. some of the first things I noticed were the variety of small shops and restaurants. Then there was the number of family and kids out on the sidewalk despite it being night time. There was an atmosphere of safety and fun as everyone walked around or came out of their local restaurant. The air was muggy, a new sensation compared to Seattle or Alaska. Eventually we arrived at the apartment of Moon's friend to unwind and eventually fall asleep.

Slowly we recovered from jet lag, adjusted our taste buds to the new diet of soup and veges for breakfast lunch and dinner and actually had enough time for a hike. The walk was up a small hill. On the way up were many places for people to exercise and play badmitton or Majong depending on your preference. Finally it ended with a nice view of Seoul. Many people were taking notice of Joon in the backpack carrier that is not so common here and he is loving all the attention he gets everywhere he goes. After a few rounds of badmitton it was back to rest up for the next leg of our journey.

Once I get my pictures together and a video of the house I will give you an update of life on the island.

a fun picture...

Seoul

Just a quick note to let everyone know we have arrived safely in Seoul. Joon is a seasoned traveler quickly adapting to his new surroundings. We are staying with Moon's friend Hae - Jin and family. their children love Joon and he is getting more attention than ever. For now we are recovering from jet lag, eating great food, and preparing to head to Moon's hometown this afternoon. We will post more soon!

Digging that hole....

Boy am I glad that is over with. I thought this was a straightforward project. Dig a new hole, move an outhouse over the hole, fill old hole with dirt.

Not so fast. This is not a topic one can google and find much discourse on. I had to debate about cribbing (supporting) the walls, having a company pump the thing, or taking my chances and digging another hole in five years. Halfway into the digging process I said 'screw it I am paying to have this thing pumped.'

In the research I did with friends around town I discovered some varied ideas on how to approach the problem. First – how much poo does one produce in a year? Can a 55 gallon drum cover the load? Second, who takes on the task of pumping that crap out and why? and third what the heck am I doing even thinking about any of this in the year 2008? One friend has back door access to their outhouse in which they can change out garbage cans and move them to the curb when ready to be pumped – (gross!), others throw a barrel down and pump yearly. I eventually looked at the cost and determined I was willing to take my chances with the hole I dug and left it as is. This was after acquiring a 55 gallon drum, sawing off the top and seeing how tiny it looked in that beautiful hole that I dug. And so days of thought went for naught as I simply moved the outhouse over the hole took one look down the empty shaft and felt saddened that it would soon never look the same down there.

In the end however, it was a satisfying moment. Digging the hole gave me some time to bond with my property and reflect on what I love about Fairbanks. Like, the fact one has to deal with outhouse holes so close to town or the cheap price one has to pay for a phenomenol view of Ester dome. And so I was glad I dug that hole and suspect in a few years I will be out there contemplating another fine dig….and so it goes (if you ever wondered). Party on!

Subaru Nation

Well we have had a week to hang out in Fairbanks and try on the clothes of a new town for a little while. It has been mostly good. When crossing in to Alaska one is aware that a lot has changed and very little has changed. Roads are in constant construction and upheaval, cost of food is still high as is gas. The local public radio station has mostly the same announcers as when we left 4 years ago and Fairbanks summers still rock. Of course rainy Augusts and the standard fair fare goes on as usual...

Things that have changed include a new country station broadcasting from Ester - a mix of old school and new school country that while sometimes a little much on the patriotic/right wing bent manages to be a decent station most of the time. UAF has upgraded its roads and made getting around campus a little easier. The Korean restaurant brightened its space and still produces quality Korean food. A new Thai rest. has opened up on the corner of ester dome rd. strange location but apparently quality food.

Selling the car proved to be easier than expected - hence the title of this blog. Post a decent subaru for sale and get ready for the phone and email to take off. Today a mechanic inspected and someone has agreed to buy for a little below our asking price. That would not have happened in Seattle so we are glad we waited. Demand was high so we could get what we wanted. Glad the process is almost over.

As for our property nothing has changed. The same tenants are there and hope to be there another year. My job this week is to dig a new hole for the outhouse - Shapoopy! - I can't wait! The house is holding up well and we are on the search for someone willing to do odd jobs on the house.

So for now we take small hikes on the nice days and visit friends in the evenings. The mosquito bites on Joon's face are finally disappearing and he seems happy in the same but different fairbanks. Until next entry - Party on!

On the road...and off again!

Hey! We have arrived safely in Fairbanks after a long 6 days on the road. We started in Seattle and took the scenic route north. We travelled through Banff and Jasper and then made our way
Northwest up to Fairbanks. Along the way we saw lots of wildlife including sheep, goats, elk, black bears, and even a grizzly. Joon had quite the adventure. It was a lot of time to spend in a car but he did great. He even enjoyed his first experience with camping. He loved to wander around the campground and slept great in the tiny tent we shared.
Since arriving in Fairbanks we have spent our first weekend catching up with friends and recovering from being in the car for so long. It has been raining for weeks here and nothing changed since we arrived. of course it feels like Seattle so no major adjustment there. We are housesitting for our friends who are in England. They have two children so the house is set for Joon with lots of toys!
Our next step is to deal with our house and continue to go through what is left of our belongings until we have a small amount to take with us to Korea. Until we post again here is a picture to enjoy!

Hi all! This is our first attempt at a blog so bear with us. We are hoping to keep everybody up to date on our travels to Alaska and overseas in Korea. Feel free to post comments and let us know how you are doing. Keep in touch and we will update soon! Party on! Joel, Moon and Joon